featured province: surigao del sur

Part of the big Caraga region, Surigao del Sur is the 56th independent Philippine Province. Its capital town, Tandag, is also the seat of the provincial government. A rustic province with most of the national road still unpaved, a trip through Surigao del Sur offers you a spectacular view of the coastline with waves crashing mildly to wildly against the shore, the green to gold hues of rice paddies and the imposing and majestic mountains of the province. Surigao del Sur has one of the remaining largest forest covers in the country.

The municipalities in the area are clustered in three based on their proximity and accessibility to each other, namely Bibahilita, Macasaltabayani, and Canmadcarlancortan. Our road trip took us to the Canmadcarlancortan cluster.

There are two things to enjoy in these areas -- seafood and surfing. Fish are always fresh when you buy from the market. Everyday fisherman would bring in their haul in the morning and in the afternoon. All you need is a grill and some salt for fine feast of roasted fish. Some soy sauce and tomatoes to go with it wouldn’t be bad either. Crustaceans are often costly in most urban areas of the Philippines, but it is relatively cheap here. It is best to get the female crabs for a meaty feast. Steam or curried… it’s definitely heaven to a seafood lover like me.

Then there is the surfing. With the vast coastlines and the waves coming from the Pacific Ocean, there are annual international surfing competitions. Top surfers from Australia and the US would come to the waters of Surigao del Sur, particularly that of Lanuza. The best time of the year for surfing would be from October to November when waves reportedly reach up to two stories high. How cool is that!

For those who are still unsure of surfing, letting yourself ride the waves is a fun enough activity. Smaller waves could carry you along a few feet. You may emerge with a lot of sand on the bottom of your suit, but hey, as long as you fun with your friends!

beach: chiara beach resort

Location: Cagwait, Surigao del Sur

I wasn't exactly sure how we got to Cagwait. It wasn't even part of the plan of our road trip. We left the planning to our newly-married friend whose initial destination was another resort in another municipality which name he just got from the Internet. After following the directions given to him, we found the place and there was a unanimous, "this is it?" reaction. Well, there wasn't any beach to speak of as it was several houses in the middle of a mangrove reservation and no place to swim in.

With words unspoken, it was decided to look for another place. The quest went on for three hours. I drifted in and out of sleep during that time. Around 3pm (we left at 4am), our friend just took a turn somewhere and decided to check in at the first place we saw. This was in Cagwait. The first resort we saw: Chiara Beach Resort.

I thought, what an interesting name for an isolated place like this. The people looked as if they weren't used to visitors because they kept staring at our vehicle as we passed them by. When we met with the owner, he happened to be German. That's why it was Chiara! He has been living in the place for a number of years already and even married a local.

It was settled that we stay there for the night. The beach wasn't exactly that exciting to look at. We've all seen better, but after being on the road for almost twelve hours, anything was acceptable.

I decided to grab a couple of people to play frisbee by the beach. The beach's sand was light brown with some pebbles scattered here and there. The waves were quite inviting for body surfing, with a height from one to two feet. The shoreline was long and littered with coconuts, which could have been brought in from the other island by the waves.

When we got tired of playing frisbee we took a dip, or more appropriately, the water kept dipping us. It was a great game of which person can travel the farthest riding the waves. I think the girls won that one out attributing it to our smaller frames. At the end of the day, the bottoms of our suits were filled with sand but our hearts were brimming with fun.

Everybody trooped to the rooms to change, but my partner and I decided to stay a bit to watch for the sunset. The copse of coconut trees actually covered the sun setting, but the clouds gave us a show as it started changing hues from red to purple to dark blue. It was magnificent.

Even if it was not what we planned for, everybody had a nice time at Cagwait and look back at it with fond memories.

exciting: lanuza

Location: Lanuza, Surigao del Sur

My buds and I decided to do a road trip for this Holy Week. Early morning of Maundy Thursday, we set of for Surigao del Sur. Our target was to go around the CANCARMADCARLAN (Cantilan, Carmen, Madrid, Carascal and Lanuza) network of Surigao del Sur.

What made me go on this trip was the stuff I found on the internet which showed white sandy beaches and crystal clear waters. The images of surfers hanging ten did not particularly appeal to me at that time.

I was pretty disappointed with the Surigao del Sur at first. After spending a day in Canibad beach in Samal (which will be a future post), the beaches of Surigao del Sur were pretty dismal. But we had to do something with our vacation, so we ended up body surfing in Cagwait and island hopping in Cantilan. It was fun, but it falls short from last year’s Holy Week escapade in Marinduque (another future post).

By Black Saturday, we decided to check Lanuza out once again (we already passed it on the way to Cantilan) and see how fare their surfing rates. After asking around, we ended up in Lanuza Bay Surfing Company. Their room rates were pretty reasonable. P200/head for the dormitory rooms, and P450 for twin sharing. Their surfing rates aren’t that bad either, at P200/hour for an instructor and P250/day surf board rental.

They made surfboards from the local tree Amakan which costs P3,500/sq foot. It would seem expensive for those not into the sport, with a short board costing around P20,000++, but other boards are priced more than that. Some of those Lanuza-made beauts are exported to California even! Proudly Pinoy-made surf boards. Yeah!

Anyway, I had first dibs trying the surf board as we crossed the delta to the beach. Lying prone on the board while maintaining balance was not easy during the first time. It kept tilting precariously, and falling off was definitely not an option. But once I got the hang of it, I was able to traverse the delta by paddling. When I got to the other side, I could already feel the adrenaline pumping. o And when I saw the waves racing to the shore, I was ready to hang ten. Or at least try to.

Philip and Ilongo were the instructors assigned to our group of seven. I was among one of the first to reach the part of surfable area of the waters, so Philip instructed me first. I just had to do what I did crossing the delta. Paddle. When a good wave came, Philip gave me the initial push and shouted, “padol!” and paddle I did.

What a rush! I felt my board and I ride the waves! It was only my first try, but I could already understand why some people I know do it every week.

It seemed like I was the most excited about surfing, as I did not stop trying to stand on the board for the last two hours that we were on the beach. The other guys would take breaks or pass the board to another. I kept going at it non-stop. Even after being hit by the board at the gut and on the face. Even after my knees were starting to bruise and my boobs were starting to hurt from climbing onto the board (which is no easy task, when the waves kept coming at me and pushing me off the board). Even when I was on my own, while Philip and Ilongo attending to the others.

Despite my tremendous effort, I could not stand up from the short board though I was already able to more or less determine a good wave to ride. I could already paddle far enough, and balance on my knees. But standing on the board was a different story all together.

Until Philip told me it would be easier using the long board. Once I was able to exchange the short board I was using with the long board, Philip helped me launch. A good wave came. He yelled, “Kini! Padol! Tindog!” (This one! Paddle! Stand!). Lo and behold! I was able to stand for two seconds. Woohoo! The adrenaline just kept pumping harder after that. After I’d paddle, kneel, stand and fall, I’d drag back my surf board and walk or paddle back further down the beach to catch more waves.

I only stopped trying when all the other six people were already on the shore resting. I wanted to try some more, but it was already getting late. The sun was almost setting and it was just the perfect time to take posterity photos. ;p

After everyone had taken their baths, all the bruises and body aches started to come out. I had a cut on my chin, bruises on my pelvis, thigh, knees and right elbow. The back of my neck was hurting from keeping my head up while I lay prone on the board watching out for coming waves. My breasts were hurting from the impact on the board, while the guys felt the same with their pectorals.

Despite all that, I was perfectly satisfied with the day. It was a good end to our long break. And at the back of my head, I was thinking, I can try this again!

This coming November 20-25, they will be having the 3^rd International Longboard Invitational and the 5^th National Surfing Open at Doot Poktoy, Lanuza, Surigao del Sur. Contact Poktoy Palm Haven at cell number 09064413025 for accommodations and details of the event. If you are interested in surf boards and surfing, contact number for Lanuza Bay Surfing Company is 0915-4471088.